Monday, April 27, 2009

So Monday after running around like a chicken with my head cut off to Laundromats, internet cafes, and packing we make it to the train station and situate ourselves for our 15 hour train ride. Luckily, we rode first class so everyone had a bed. Despite the beds actually being the back of a row of three chairs it was fairly comfortable. Plus I had never taken a night train before so it was exciting that my first sleeping train was in Cameroon. However, I did not get much sleep with all the rocking back and forth. I was not amongst those who found it soothing. I awake about 6:30am to find us stopped. At first I thought it was one of our regular station stops like those happening throughout the night. Then Teku told me we had been stopped since 5:45am due to loss of communication with other trains. We were about two hours from our destination at that point since we were supposed to arrive at 9am. So I settled in for what I figured to be another hour wait. We started moving a little after 11am. I should have known not to assume in Africa.

In Nagoundere we had just enough time for a bathroom and food break before boarding a bus for a 7 hour journey to Maroua. I believe some were under the impression we would have our own bus, probably because not all of us at this point have experienced the wonders of African public transportation. This time I assumed right and we squeezed in amongst twenty other passengers. Kaitlin and I managed to snag the best seats but unfortunately gendarmes with three foot long guns were riding with us and required that seat, so we got relegated to the second row from the back, putting me next to a man who sang incessantly like a girl. He was off-key as well. Quite annoying. But I figured a confrontation would only prolong the agony of the trip. Also, it is my theory that Africans are afraid of wind. Two rows in front of us where more white people sat were the last windows open on the bus. Kaitlin and I felt like we were dying. However, it was great watching the landscape change from sub-tropical to sahel. If I hadn’t known where we were going I would have assumed we were in a different country. No wonder they call Cameroon “Africa in miniature.”

Thus our original arrival time in Maroua at 5pm turned out to be close to 10:30. Both Harry and I lost that bet. I think that made it still 3 drinks to 2 in my favor. Betting keeps things interesting here. However, our hotel had prepared food for us and there were wonderful bathrooms with working showers and toilets and air conditioning. Life was complete. Slept in the next morning and Kaitlin and I explored around before breakfast finding the pool as well as a small zoo right in front of our bungalow! They had two ostriches, a goat, a peacock, and several monkeys. All the animals were quite entertaining. Our first day in Maroua was spent at the handicraft market in until early afternoon where much bargaining occurred. I was proud I did a lot of it by myself! All you have to do is pretend you don’t want it anymore, walk away, and they come running to give you the better price. I forget what it was I purchased but I got the price down from 30,000 francs to 10,000, which in dollars would be $60 to $20. I was proud especially since I was bargaining in French.

After lunch, Kaitlin and I with our good jewelry and fashion sense assisted Harry in girlfriend purchases and we stumbled upon a Senegalese jeweler. We started to ask about how he does his work and he was so enthusiastic to show us he polished all our silver jewelry we were wearing for free! I also found a Muslim prayer mat I really liked so anyone who wants to meditate next year my mat is available for use. The extreme north is mainly Muslim populations so it was really interesting to see the different times of the day where the men rush to lay down their mats toward Mecca. The afternoon was spent visiting the old program director who is now the president of the University of Maroua and playing football in the pool. The extreme north varies around the 100 degree mark so any coolness was much appreciated. For dinner we went to the old program director’s house which for some reason also had ostrich’s and randomly turkeys. But the meal was excellent. There was fried capitaine, cocoyams, rice, tomato sauce, legumes and fruit salad. That night we played psychologist, a frustrating yet amusing game. I’ll teach everyone at the beach.

The next morning we woke early to travel to Maga artificial lake (built by the Chinese in 1975), about two hours away. I SAW HIPPOS!!!! Basically my life is complete now and I can die happy. We were only 50 feet away from them in the water! Got a nice short and tank top tan line on the boat in the process. Then we thought we had a two hour bus ride to Waza National Park. Turns out the entrance to the park is two hours and then its another two to where we were staying the night in the park. All off-roading. Harry, Kaitlin, and I (the “disabled backseat”) attempted crossword puzzles but you can imagine how unsuccessful we were. We saw a lot of animals on the way there including giraffes, warthogs, Zazu birds and antelope. Starving we arrived at our huts and ate dinner. This is the moment I found out how much I appreciate refrigerators. Theirs did not work so all the sodas were warm, plus from being in the bus all day our water was boiling hot which only succeeds in making you thirstier. But I had my first hot shower since January 7th! I did not fully appreciate it. At this point I was dying for a cold bath.

I stargazed for awhile then Kaitlin and I went to bed. There was a fan in our room which initially I was ecstatic about. All it did was blow hot air on me. My t-shirt was soaked through at the top. I classify Waza Park as the worst night’s sleep I’ve ever had. And I don’t sleep well to begin with. I found out in the morning Harry wetted his t-shirt and tried sleeping outside. Apparently, it wasn’t any better and within two hours his shirt was bone dry. In the morning Mr. Teku proclaimed he “cooked” all night in his room. Oh well, at least I wasn’t riding the struggle bus alone at 5:30am when we ventured on safari. Most of this safari I could have done without since it was the same thing we saw coming into the park. But at last we spotted a group of elephants with two babies. I climbed out the bus window and got a great view from the top, and eventually we all wandered a few feet from the bus for more pictures. After lunch we took a paved road back to Maroua. I have never been so ecstatic to view tar. Or buy a cold Sprite and roll it over my face in the bus.

Saturday we traveled three hours to the village of Rhumsiki. I have never more appreciated Mr. Teku’s efforts to get us into hotels with pools upon our arrival. I mean if you ask me about this trip later all I’m going to remember is that is was HOT. After a rousing game of water polo and dinner it was due time to go out for drinks. Saturday we woke to trek to the Nigerian/Cameroon border. Once again HOT. But the view from the top of the mountain was amazing and I got to cross borders without a ticket or passport so it was totally worth it. That day we also visited a wedding ceremony and the crab man sorcerer, who you pose a question to, he talks to the crab, and then tells you the answer depending on how the crab arranges things in a pot and where he is sitting when the man lifts off the lid. I had no idea what to ask so I picked the general question of “What will happen in the next year of my life?” Obviously, I put no stock in these sorts of things but it was fun to hear although slightly predictable at times. Then for dinner we visited the Bread Man of Rhumsiki. I would move here just for the bread just as I would move to Kumbo for the mangoes. They need to figure out how to better export these things. We ended up ordering a mélange of the menu for everyone to have tastes and ended up with a six course meal. I was still full the next morning. I felt like I had developed an African baby in my stomach. Kaitlin and I tried to shower in the pool area that night but to no avail. Our shower head did not work in our room while we were there but water came out of the faucet it was attached to, so you just had to squat to wash. A little inconvenient but cool. Otherwise the rest of the trip was traveling back to Yaoundé, miserable but used to it by now so I won’t bore with the details.

As of right now, I was in a wedding last night so a forthcoming update on that event will ensue soon. Then Wednesday I leave for the rainforest until Sunday. However, I’m ready to come home as of this week. I’m starting to get sad to leave Cameroon and everyone here, but I’m homesick and anxious to see everyone. But I hope the rest of you abroad people are still having a great time like I am and everyone at home is enjoying the warmer weather. Finally right? I’m sure after this I’ll think it’s cold. We’ll see.

1 comment:

  1. you realize you just casually put in there that you are going to the rain forest. you can't just be like ohh by the way, i'm going to the rain forest!!! that is a pretty big deal! hahah can't believe all of the amazing things you are doing!!!! we could probably talk for 50 years and never run out of stories to exchange. i misssssss YOU!

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